Chocolate Lovers Find Smooth Dark Amid Choice Array
If perfection is possible in chocolate making it may have been achieved in all but one respect by Christopher Elbow of Kansas City, whose offerings welcomed visitors at the first table at the Big Chocolate Show this weekend in the vast ground floor show space at the Terminal Stores at 11th Ave and 27th St, where Elbow’s glorious pictorial array of delicately hand and air brush painted round and square morsels were lined up in $185 gift boxes or in a parade of three prime selections for visitors to taste and discover the extraordinary delicacy of their supersoft, light cream ganache filled interiors …
except perhaps for the small point that their finely varied decoration is not organic, which is a concern of some consumers today, but if so they would have missed other strong rivals for attention at this extensive show, such as the beautifully costumed chocolate torso dolls by Moran Etstein of DrizzleNYC, whose modeling is so lavish and exquisite to the eye that she has packed them in boxes which can be mounted vertically for display if you can’t bear to consume them, which is likely, or the chocolate bars in clean modern design G logo’d covers and the more substantial if less subtle olive oil based quanache of Ron Paprocki ….
who cooks his creations up up in a special corner of the kitchen of the Gotham Bar and Grill just off Union Square at 12E12St, or the 100% cacao bar of Pacari, pure but still astonishingly smooth flavored chocolate,
or the very promising Angovi chocolate from the Ecuadorian company formed last year and devoted to making “the best chocolates in the world” by five high school friends from Ecuador, after they had worked in high finance (J.P. Morgan) and in law as well as in their family plantations, ….
whose Chocolate Bianco bar, for example, contains only 35% cacao yet manages to get away with it in the warm splendor of self indulgent comfort that may envelope you as you eat it, but of the five Ecuadorian tree-to-bar entities at the show the very best chocolate seemed to be the range labeled Minka from the Shiwa Urku Community, of which the 43% dark-and-milk was exemplary in achieving a fine sweet milk without a trace of sugary bloating….rivaled at the show only by the communal Grenada cocoa farmers’group Jouvay bars, whose name implies the arrival of a new day for chocolate and certainly backed it up ….
with their 70% cocoa content bar which achieved a fresh and smooth flavor even at that level of advanced darkness, which otherwise so often loses a wide audience because it passes their boundary of bitterness, although aficianados with a yen for urban sophistication which combines chocolate punch with satisfying substance to the level of real food may find exactly what they love from De Martini in their Praline with Barolo purple wrapped shells of dark chocolate with aromatic filling juiced with Barolo, the reigning royal of wines from Piedmont.